Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Kerala: "God's Country"


Our two hour flight from Hyderabad into Cochin was uneventful. It's a quaint little place compared to the larger airports with which most of us are familiar. Cochin, the old Keralan spice city, is on the far southern tip of India in an area of dense tropical forests and extensive ridges and ravines. People have been coming here since ancient times in search of spices, sandalwood and ivory. Such long contact with people from overseas has resulted in the blending of various cultures and has given a cosmopolitan outlook, with one of the most progressive, literate and highly educated peoples in India.
 
Once there, we were met by our driver for the weekend. With him, we enjoyed a bit of everyday life in Kerala during our three hour van ride to Alleppey.

On arriving in Alleppey, we were greeted by the family that owned the houseboat on which we planned to spend the rest of the day and night. Think of it as Kerala's answer to the American bed and breakfast. They already had lunch prepared for us! We savored the Indian home style cooking and took in the scenery of Kerala's backwaters. It certainly felt like a tropical paradise, as we floated by rows of palm trees and coconuts.


I was surprised by how many houseboats there were, in all sorts of styles and colors. We were even more surprised that the boat drivers honk as they approach oncoming boat traffic - just as we've experienced on every road from almost every vehicle we've seen. Next to cricket, I think it must be the national pastime.




We spent the rest of the day together on the boat, reading, relaxing, listening to music and eating before it was time to dock and go to bed. Sleeping on the boat was pretty cool, even though there is no hot water on a house boat. Though we prepared for mosquitos, gnats and flies were more prevalent. These only became a nuisance at night, when attracted by the lights on board the house boat. All in all, it was a super pleasant experience.


Sunday morning, it was up and at 'em for breakfast and then back in or on the van for a drive back through Cochin. FYI, Fort Cochin is not a fort... more like a seaside port area. Then it was on to Munnar. 

Munnar is a beautiful hill station and was the summer resort of the British. Tourists come here to see the vast tea plantations of the area. The town itself is typically Indian with the usual shops, guest houses and is really beautiful and traditional. It is a good place to stay to see the surrounding countryside.

Most of our day was spent riding up the steep mountain on very narrow roads. Much to our dismay, there seems to be only one approach to driving in India AND there are even traffic jams on scenic country mountain sides. Even so, the natural beauty of Munnar is incredible. Tea plantations are EVERYWHERE, and as we would learn, so are road side stands selling tea.

After a long day, we made it to our hotel for some well deserved sleep, in preparation for our next day of sightseeing in Munnar. As you can see, our C7 Hotel was first rate and a welcome sight. Perhaps the most impressive photo opportunity of the day was of at one of the many tea plantations, during sunset.







Monday included a bit of hill-climbing, until security told us to leave the hillside immediately because there was a wild elephant about half a kilometer away that was heading toward us! We tried our best to see it as we continued our drive, but the dense trees and foliage hid it from view. Next, we stopped at Echo Point, a huge lake that, as the name suggests, provides an opportunity for visitors to yell out and hear their voices come back at them.



We had some time for shopping here, and I bought some loose leaf tea (obviously a must in Munnar) and spiced cashews. Yum! It actually took a while to find suitable tea. Here, tea leaves are quickly ground into a powder, so unlike the loose tea we buy in the States, what is most available here is more akin to instant coffee.

And now for a quick game of "Stump the Blog Reader." Here is your "Toss Up Question." For 10 points, describe what you see in the picture below. Well, it is Monday. Maybe laundry day in Munnar, you say? WRONG. Along with a wide variety of spices, rubber trees, brought to Kerala by Dutch settlers, grow quite well in the region. These are not restaurant linens, but rubber sheets processed by the locals.

Ninety percent of all natural rubber produced in India is produced in Kerala. The liquid from the plant is transferred from buckets into pans. After it dries, it is sometimes flattened by running it through a hand cranked press, then bundled and shipped.



And the 25 point "Bonus Question" is ....  80 to 90% of true cinnamon (Cinnamom verum) is grown in nearby Sri Lanka.  Although not identical to the herb used in the United States, cinnamon tree leaves are used as what spice? If you answered "bay leaf," you are truly Master of the Kitchen, if not the House. (At least Les Mis devotees will appreciate the reference.)

Our last stop was at one of Munnar's two dams - very scenic, and we enjoyed a short walk through the adjacent woods. No wild animals this time! We did however, hit another bit of traffic on our way down the mountain, so we stopped for a little lunch and relaxation. Afterward, we decided to make our way towards the airport.


Unbeknownst to us, we could have taken our time since our departing flight was delayed a few hours. We returned to Hyderabad around 1:30 am, much later than we had planned. So we were VERY pleased to get back in our "own beds" at the Lemon Tree. Thanks everyone for a GREAT Excursion #1.