We knew that our short weekend wouldn’t be enough to cover all of Mumbai (or Bombay as some still call it), the most populous city in India, but we were hoping that our planned Mumbai on “speed-dial” would be sufficient to provide a sufficient overview and an authentic Mumbai experience.
We landed at the Mumbai airport and were greeted by Jon’s family friend, Mrs. Bucheri. Her personal driver drove us back to her impressive flat, and we spent some time relaxing and chatting before heading out for lunch. We were treated by Mrs. Bucheri to a thali lunch, which has become one of our favorite ways to try Indian food. In Hindi, the word thali literally means plate, and in the context of a mealtime menu, it can be thought of as a sampler.
Most thalis that I’ve had in India are served on a large plate with many little dishes, each filled with different curries, vegetables or sauces. Rice or bread is often served in the middle of the small dishes as an accompaniment. Thalis are a great way to try lots of things at once, and often, servers will come around with all of the food to refill the small dishes. This way, you can get more of the things you like.
After lunch, Mrs. Bucheri and Jon dropped Kalie and me off at the Trident Hotel, one of the premiere hotels in Mumbai. Knowing that we would only be staying one night, Kalie and I decided to split the cost of a room at The Trident, It certainly did not disappoint! Our view of the ocean was magnificent! After exploring the room and trying on our complimentary robes and slippers, Kalie and I had time for a quick power-nap before meeting Tamal, Kalie’s colleague from a previous Deloitte project.
With Tamal as a trusted guide, we began our afternoon tour around Mumbai by walking along Marine Drive, the ocean front street, adjacent to the hotel. Deciding to be a bit adventurous, we climbed out onto the wave breakers and enjoyed the sea breeze for a while before continuing.
Next on the agenda was the Gateway of India. This impressive structure was used as a landing place for the British, when India was still under British rule. Similar to Ellis Island, it would have been the first thing seen by anyone coming to Mumbai by boat. We had our own opportunity to experience this view first hand when we took a short ferry ride around the area.
By the time we returned to shore, the area around the gateway was unbelievably crowded. This was really the first time, since my short experience in Charminar, that I was overwhelmed by the incredible crush of crowds in India. It was almost impossible to get back to the car without bumping into someone every few steps. You really do get the feeling that it might be possible to lose your way, if not get swept up by the crowds.
After making our way through the sea of people and away from aggressive merchants, who were desperately trying to get us to buy souvenirs, we made it to the car and began our drive across the city to “the bandstand,” a seaside walkway located in one of Mumbai’s suburbs.
Tamal was hoping that we would get there before dark, but the traffic dictated otherwise. Kalie and I had thought the traffic was bad in Hyderabad, but getting to and from work every day seems like a walk in the park compared to the oppressive traffic congestion that we experienced in Mumbai!
On the way to the bandstand, we drove through neighborhoods of stark contrasts. There were streets lined with the makeshift shanties of the impoverished, followed by the posh, upscale shopping district of the Bollywood elites. We certainly witnessed the disparity between rich and poor in Mumbai that we hear about so often in the US.
We did finally reach the bandstand but after sunset, so the ocean view we had hoped for could not be seen. We did however, see the amazing Mumbai skyline and the Sealink Bridge in all of its glory. Kalie and I worked a little longer than usual with our cameras to make sure our nighttime pictures were just right before going to dinner at a great seafood restaurant.
Being a coastal city, Mumbai is known for its seafood. Excellensea claims to be the oldest surviving sea food restaurant in Mumbai. It was originally known
as Bharat Hotel. According to reviews, its become "the rendezvous for famous, and fashionable lovers
of Indian food ." We don't know about that, but the spicy grilled kingfish that we had as an appetizer was terrific!
Exhausted from the long day, no doubt exacerbated by the increased heat and humidity of Mumbai, Kalie and I were happy to be dropped off after dinner at the Trident for a full night of sleep!